Lever action rifles have been around for well over a century, and there’s a reason they’re still in use today. They’re fast, reliable, and surprisingly versatile, whether you’re hunting, defending your home, or just enjoying a day at the range. While they don’t get as much attention as modern semi-autos, lever guns offer a hands-on shooting experience that rewards skill and practice. To get the most out of yours, you need to know how to load it right, keep it running smoothly, and avoid common mistakes. Here’s what every shooter should know to handle a lever action like a pro.
Get Comfortable with Your Sights
If your lever gun came with Buckhorn sights, you’re not alone in finding them tricky. The deep notch and curved wings can make precision aiming tough, especially at distance. Some folks learn to work with them, but if you want faster target acquisition and better accuracy, consider swapping them for peep sights or a ghost ring. They give you a clearer sight picture and make shooting way easier.
Want to modernize your rifle a bit? A low-profile red dot can be a game-changer, especially for quick shots on moving targets. Whatever you choose, don’t just slap it on and assume you’re good to go—spend time dialing it in and getting comfortable. A good sight setup won’t help if you don’t train with it.
Jams Happen—Know How to Fix Them
Lever actions are tough, but when they jam, they don’t clear as easily as a semi-auto. A round can get wedged in the action, and unlike a pistol where you just tap and rack, you have to finesse a lever gun a bit. First step? Don’t force it. Slamming the lever around usually makes things worse.
If you’re at the range, unloading and starting fresh is easy, but in the field, you need to be ready. A pocket knife or a small flathead screwdriver can help nudge a stubborn round loose. Some rifles even run better with a quick squirt of oil on the carrier or bolt if things are getting sticky. The more time you spend running your rifle, the better you’ll get at handling these hiccups when they pop up.
Feed It the Right Ammo—Not Just Any Ammo
Lever actions can be picky eaters, and if yours takes multiple calibers—like a .357 Magnum that also shoots .38 Special—you might assume you can swap between them without issue. But shorter rounds sometimes don’t feed cleanly, and weaker loads might not cycle the action properly. Some rifles don’t like certain bullet shapes either—flat-nose, round-nose, or soft points can all behave differently in your gun.
The fix? Find what runs smoothly in your rifle and stick with it. Don’t wait until you’re out hunting or in a self-defense situation to realize your gun doesn’t like that cheap box of ammo you grabbed. Test everything at the range first so you know what works when it matters.
Work the Lever Like You Mean It
Short stroking—only partially cycling the lever—is the fastest way to jam up your rifle. It happens when you don’t push the lever all the way forward and pull it all the way back. Instead of a smooth reload, you’ll either fail to chamber a round or end up double-feeding. Either way, your rifle is out of commission until you fix it.
The trick is to build muscle memory. Work the lever with authority—don’t baby it. Think of it like a pump shotgun: smooth, firm, and confident is the way to go. If you’re hesitating or trying to be too gentle, you’re going to run into problems. Run that lever like it was meant to be run.
Load Your Lever Gun the Right Way
Loading a lever action isn’t always as smooth as you’d think, especially with a side-loading gate. If your rifle is brand new, that gate can be stiff, making it tough to push rounds in without feeling like you’re jamming your fingers into a vice. Instead of fighting it, use a trick—push each round in about halfway, then use the next one to seat it fully. It saves your fingers and makes the whole process quicker.
Under-barrel tube loading is another style, and while it’s easier on the hands, it’s not as fast for topping off rounds. If your rifle has a loading gate, practice reloading until it’s second nature. When time matters—whether you’re hunting or in a self-defense situation—you don’t want to be fumbling with your ammo.
Customizing a Lever Gun Takes Work
Unlike ARs or other modern rifles, lever actions don’t come with endless rail space and plug-and-play accessory options. Out of the box, you’re usually working with just iron sights and maybe a place to mount a scope. Want a light, red dot, or a sling? You might have to get creative.
Some newer tactical-style lever guns come with M-LOK or Picatinny rails, making upgrades easier. But if you’ve got a traditional model, you may need aftermarket parts like scout rails or side mounts. The key is deciding what you actually need. Lever actions are meant to be simple and lightweight—stacking on too much gear can take away from what makes them great in the first place.
Make Up for That Low Round Count
Lever actions don’t pack the same round capacity as a modern rifle. Depending on caliber and barrel length, you’re looking at anywhere from 5 to 10 rounds, which means you need to be smart about keeping extra ammo handy. If you’re used to higher-capacity magazines, it’s an adjustment, but it’s one you can work around.
A good fix is carrying spare rounds on your rifle. A leather or nylon stock sleeve with ammo loops lets you grab rounds quickly, and a side saddle can keep extra shells ready to go. If fast reloads are a concern, train yourself to load a couple of rounds at a time instead of waiting until the rifle is empty. Running a lever action well is all about smooth, steady reloads when you need them.
Pick a Caliber That Works for You
Lever actions come in some serious workhorse calibers, like .30-30 and .45-70, but they’re not always as easy to find as your typical 5.56 or 9mm. If you’re planning to hunt, a .30-30 is a solid all-around choice, while a .45-70 will drop just about anything walking North America. But if you’re looking for something more affordable and versatile, pistol calibers like .357 Magnum or .44 Magnum give you power and cheaper ammo options.
Before you commit, think about availability. If your local shop only stocks .30-30 every now and then, that might be a problem when you need to restock. The best caliber is the one you can shoot often and trust to get the job done.
Manage Recoil and Run the Lever Smoothly
A lever action doesn’t cycle itself—you do all the work. And if you’re not used to it, the combination of recoil and manually running the lever can take some getting used to. A big-bore lever gun in .45-70 can pack a punch, and if you’re not gripping it right, that recoil can knock you off target.
If you’re new to lever guns, start with something manageable, like a .22 or a pistol-caliber rifle. This lets you build up strength and confidence without fighting heavy recoil. Over time, working the lever will feel smoother, and you’ll get faster without even thinking about it. A good stance, solid grip, and a firm shoulder mount make all the difference.
Mounting an Optic? Know Your Rifle First
Not all lever actions are scope-friendly. If you’ve got an older top-eject Winchester, mounting a scope directly on top is a no-go since the empty casings will eject right into it. Some models, like Marlin’s side-eject rifles, make it easier to mount traditional optics, while scout-style mounts let you run a long-eye-relief scope or red dot forward of the action.
If you’re set on running an optic, check if your rifle is drilled and tapped for a rail. If it’s not, you may need a gunsmith to set it up. Either way, keep in mind that lever guns are built for quick, instinctive shooting—sometimes, a good set of peep sights is all you really need.
*This article was created with the assistance of AI.
