The 20 Firearms That Appear at Gun Shows for Half What They Are Worth and Sell Quickly

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If you spend enough Saturdays walking gun show aisles, you start to notice a pattern. The deals that vanish fast are not always the newest, flashiest stuff with a “tactical” name and a bunch of bolt-ons. It’s usually the honest, usable guns that got traded in for something trendier, or an estate piece that the family priced to move, or a rifle somebody bought in a hurry and never really bonded with.

Now, I’m not telling you to sprint around like you’re on a game show. I’m saying there are certain models that routinely show up tagged way under their real-world value, and the guys who recognize them don’t stand there debating. They check the bore, work the action, look for cracks and home gunsmithing, and they either buy it or move on. Here are 20 that tend to go quick when they’re priced wrong.

1. Ruger M77 Mark II

This is one of those rifles that feels like it was built by people who expected it to live behind a truck seat and still work in November. Controlled-round feed, solid extractor, and a reputation for taking rough handling without turning finicky. When one shows up with honest wear and a low tag, it doesn’t sit long.

Look for mangled guard screws, buggered scope base screws, and a stock that’s been “bedded” with something that smells like hardware-store epoxy. If it’s clean and the bolt runs smooth, you’re staring at a real hunting rifle that’ll outlast most of us.

2. Remington 870 Wingmaster (older blued guns)

The older Wingmasters have that slick, glassy pump stroke that newer budget pumps try to imitate and don’t. A lot of them get priced like any other used 870, and that’s where a buyer wins. The finish might be worn thin, but the guts are usually still right.

Check the carrier and action bars for abuse and make sure the barrel ring isn’t beat up from somebody running a loose mag cap. If it passes that sniff test, it’s a lifetime shotgun for birds, deer, camp, and everything in between.

3. Smith & Wesson Model 10

There is nothing sexy about a fixed-sight .38 service revolver until you actually shoot one. The Model 10 points naturally, the triggers are often better than they have any right to be, and they just run. When one shows up at a gun show table with a “grandpa’s gun” price, it’ll be gone in an hour.

Watch for a cylinder that doesn’t lock up tight or a timing issue, because a hard life in a duty holster can still mean hard use. But a good one is a perfect glovebox or nightstand revolver if you like simple tools.

4. Glock 19 (Gen 3 and Gen 4)

Every time the latest carry trend hits, there’s a wave of perfectly good mid-size pistols that get dumped. The Glock 19 is the classic example. It’s not the tiniest, not the flattest, not the newest, and that’s exactly why it stays useful.

Gun show deals pop up when departments trade them, or when a guy wants to fund a new micro-compact. Check the sights, inspect the frame rails, and make sure it hasn’t been “upgraded” with a mystery trigger. Magazines are everywhere, parts are everywhere, and it’s hard to buy wrong if it hasn’t been abused.

5. Ruger Security-Six

If you know, you know. The Security-Six series is a tough, working revolver that often gets overlooked because it isn’t a Python and it doesn’t have the modern GP100 profile. That works in your favor at a gun show, because the price tags can be weirdly soft.

These make great trail and camp guns in .357, and they carry better than some of the heavier frames. Check endshake and lockup. If it’s tight, it’s a revolver you can actually use without feeling like you’re babysitting a collectible.

6. Marlin 336 (JM-stamped rifles)

Lever guns are hot, and that has pushed prices into the clouds. But the occasional Marlin 336 with the right stamp still slips through when a seller isn’t tracking the market or just wants it gone. When that happens, it’s one of the quickest sales in the building.

Cycle it and make sure it feeds smoothly, and look closely at the crown and rifling. A clean 336 in .30-30 is still one of the best “real woods rifle” answers ever made. There is nothing fancy about it, and that is kind of the point.

7. Mossberg 500 (older police/trade-in guns)

You’ll see Mossberg 500s everywhere, but the older heavy-use duty guns are the ones that get priced like a beater and then bought by somebody who understands what they are. Mossberg controls are simple, the platform is supported, and they’re easy to keep running.

Just don’t ignore obvious neglect. Check the safety for positive clicks, inspect the ejector, and look for a cracked fore-end. If it’s sound, it’s a do-anything shotgun that can be set up for birds, deer, or home use with simple swaps.

8. CZ 75B

The CZ 75B is one of the best “shooters” in the used pistol world, and it still gets undervalued when it’s sitting next to trendier polymer guns. When you pick it up, the grip shape makes sense immediately. At the range, it tracks flat and feels steady.

Some guys sell them because they don’t want to mess with DA/SA, or they decide they only want striker guns. Fine by me. Check for peening, make sure the safety works correctly, and verify magazines are included, because factory mags aren’t always cheap.

9. Beretta 92FS (and police trade-ins)

Big, smooth, and boring in the best way. The Beretta 92FS gets dumped when folks chase smaller carry guns, but it’s still a soft-shooting 9mm that eats ammo and keeps going. Police trade-ins often look rough outside and run like tops.

Look at the locking block area for cracks and check the slide/frame fit. If it’s tight enough and cycles right, you’re getting a full-size pistol that’s easy to shoot well. That matters more than internet opinions.

10. Ruger 10/22 (older carbines with decent triggers)

The 10/22 is everywhere, which is exactly why bargains happen. You’ll see a basic carbine tagged low because it’s “just a .22,” and then somebody who actually hunts squirrels or teaches kids to shoot scoops it up. Ask me how I know.

Check the barrel band area for stock swelling and make sure the bolt face isn’t chewed up. Even if it’s bone stock, the aftermarket is endless and parts are cheap. A good used one is more useful than a safe full of “project guns” that never get finished.

11. Savage 110 (older long-action hunting rifles)

Old Savage 110s are the definition of plain, and they don’t always photograph well on a seller’s table. But they shoot. A lot of them shoot better than rifles that cost twice as much, and they’re usually easy to re-barrel if you ever go down that road the legal, normal way through a gunsmith.

Inspect the scope mounting holes, check for rust under the stock line, and make sure the safety works correctly. If the bore is good, you just found a cheap, accurate deer rifle that isn’t trying to impress anybody.

12. Winchester Model 70 (pre-’64 and Classic controlled-feed)

Every now and then you’ll see a Model 70 priced like “old bolt gun,” and you can almost feel the air change around the table. The Model 70 has a following for a reason. The action is strong, the handling is right, and it carries like a hunting rifle should.

You do have to know what you’re looking at, because prices swing wildly depending on era and condition. Check for extra holes drilled in the receiver, check the bolt face, and make sure the stock hasn’t been butchered. If it’s legit, it’s not staying on that table.

13. Browning A-Bolt

The A-Bolt is one of those rifles that quietly did its job for years without building an internet cult. That makes it a sneaky buy. They’re typically accurate, the bolts run smooth, and they balance well in the hands, especially in the mountains or thick timber.

Downside is magazines and small parts aren’t as universal as some other brands, so make sure it comes with what it needs. If it does, it’s an easy rifle to like and a harder rifle to replace once you realize you miss it.

14. Ruger GP100

There’s a reason the GP100 keeps showing up on “best .357” lists that are written by people who actually shoot. It’s durable, handles full-power loads without feeling like it’s being punished, and it’s simple to live with. When one is priced like an off-brand revolver, it gets bought fast.

Check for a trigger that’s been messed with and make sure the cylinder locks up like it should. Cosmetic wear doesn’t scare me on these. Mechanical slop does.

15. Smith & Wesson Model 19 (and Model 66)

K-frames are easy to carry and quick to point, and that’s why so many outdoorsmen still like them. You’ll see Model 19s and 66s pop up from time to time with a “used .357” price that doesn’t match the demand. They’re not all safe queens, either. Many are honest working guns.

Just be real about what you’re buying. Check timing, look for forcing cone issues, and don’t assume every old revolver is perfect. A good one is a joy. A tired one is a project you didn’t ask for.

16. Springfield Armory M1A (standard models)

The M1A is not light, not cheap to feed, and not what I’d call a practical “one rifle” for most folks. Still, they get sold in moments of realism when a guy realizes he doesn’t want to haul it around. That’s when you find them at a number that makes you stop walking.

Inspect the stock fit, check the op-rod area for smooth travel, and look for bubba accessories that add weight without adding function. A clean standard model is a classic range rifle and a solid piece of American-style steel and wood.

17. Colt AR-15 SP1

These don’t show up at every show, but when they do, the right buyer will sniff them out. An SP1 can get mispriced by someone who sees “old AR” instead of “early Colt.” If it’s original and unmolested, it’ll sell quickly and usually quietly.

Look for mismatched parts, odd pins, or signs somebody tried to modernize it and did a sloppy job. Collectible ARs are their own rabbit hole, but even if you’re not a collector, it’s a piece of history that’s getting harder to find in clean shape.

18. FN Browning Hi-Power (FN-marked pistols)

The Hi-Power is one of those pistols that feels alive in the hand. Slim, pointable, and built in an era when steel guns were expected to last. You’ll still see them undervalued by sellers who think “older 9mm” equals “obsolete.”

Check the sights and trigger feel, and pay attention to magazine quality. Some of the aftermarket mags are junk. A solid FN example at a good price will not sit there long, especially with the renewed interest in classic service pistols.

19. Ruger No. 1

Single-shots are not for everyone, and that’s exactly why the Ruger No. 1 can get priced wrong. Somebody buys one because it’s gorgeous, then realizes they want follow-up shots for hogs or they don’t like working around the scope when loading. Then it hits the table.

If you’re a hunter who doesn’t mind making the first shot count, the No. 1 is a classy, compact rifle that carries well. Check the fore-end fit and make sure the ejector/extractor is behaving. When you find a good one, you’ll either buy it or you’ll think about it for the next five years.

20. Smith & Wesson 5906 (and other 3rd Gen metal autos)

These old stainless duty pistols are chunky, heavy, and not trendy. They’re also tough, reliable, and often sold for prices that don’t make sense compared to what you’re getting. When a clean 5906 shows up with a couple mags and a fair tag, it tends to disappear fast.

The main thing is condition and support. Parts are not as plug-and-play as modern striker guns, and you don’t want one that’s been “tuned” by somebody with a file. But a solid 3rd Gen Smith is a lot of pistol for the money, and it shoots soft.

Gun show bargains aren’t magic, and they’re not always “steals” once you factor in missing mags, bad optics, or a rifle that needs real work. Still, these 20 are the kind of guns that routinely end up underpriced because they’re unfashionable, misunderstood, or just sitting in the wrong hands. If you know what to check and you keep your head on straight, you can walk out with something genuinely useful instead of another impulse buy you’ll be trying to trade next month.